I first visited the Salmon River Trail on a Monday in June, having set out in search of an after-work excursion within easy striking distance of Portland.
It was a perfect early-summer evening — you know the kind — where the daylight lasts forever and the golden charm of it all reminds you why you’re lucky to live here.
My objective was simple: Drive roughly 46 miles from home to the trailhead near Welches. Hike four more miles to a rocky viewpoint, survey the scene and return the way I came.
That, and get back in time to get enough sleep to fuel the following workday.
The whole thing went off without a hitch, and I was struck by several campsites along the trail’s namesake river. So when it came time to pick a destination for an episode of our Peak Northwest video series, I knew just the spot.
I rolled up to the trailhead a couple of weeks later — this time with videographer Brooke Herbert, a couple of cameras and backpacking bags. We were bound for one of the campsites I spotted on my first trip: inviting nooks set between the footpath and river, only a short hike from the trailhead.
The arrangement would be perfect for our first video shoot since the coronavirus pandemic set in. We’d avoid weekend crowds, have a campsite far from the masses and not have to rely on any public facilities such as restrooms.
Plus, we’d have to hike only a couple of miles to camp, and the trip didn’t require any paid permits or reservations. Trail users need only a parking pass — and a free, self-issued permit if they enter the Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness from mid-May to mid-October.
Brooke and I set off from the trailhead, hugging the shoulder of the wild and scenic river before meandering away from the shore and deeper into a mossy, old growth forest.
We passed only a few parties — including an angler who didn’t catch anything that day — and staked our claim upon a forested campsite within the wilderness.
The site was clearly established, though unmarked, and featured a stone firepit and easy river access. In other words: It was exactly what we were looking for.
Brooke and I got right to work by setting up our tents, gathering firewood and stoking a small blaze like our dinner depended on it.
Dinner, after all, was a top priority.
Brooke had outdone herself on this trip, encouraging me to eschew my minimalist camp cooking in favor of salmon, corn on the cob and rice.
We seasoned our salmon filets, wrapped them in tinfoil and stuck them in the fire — allowing the embers to do the rest. Our corn took a similar treatment, minus the seasoning, and we cooked the rice on Brooke’s backpacking stove.
Then we dug in. And, boy, was it exquisite.
The meal was nothing short of a masterpiece, complete with hints of summer (buttered corn on the cob) and irony (eating salmon filets inside an aptly named wilderness.)
It was easily the best backpacking meal I’ve had — and if I’m being honest, its quality eclipsed that of most meals I prepare in my home kitchen.
We did the dishes, watched the fire burn down and headed off to our tents, where we could hear the river rushing downstream as we drifted off to sleep.
We awoke early the next morning, left our gear at camp and did a short hike to a viewpoint high above the river. Our perch was spectacular, with a sea of trees stretching before us and a small waterfall far below.
And we didn’t have to work too hard to make it happen: At this point, we’d hiked only about four miles on mostly gentle terrain — though there were some steeper spots.
We retraced our steps after pausing at the viewpoint, made oatmeal on Brooke’s backpacking stove, broke down camp and started toward the trailhead. Before long, we were back on the road.
The excursion — driving and all — took roughly 24 hours. Not bad for a weekday getaway.
Here’s what you need to know if you’re interested in planning a trip of your own:
Who should try? Hikers and backpackers seeking a moderate excursion along a river and through a forest. This trip is especially good for Portland-area residents in search of an outing that’s reasonably close to home.
What will you do? Hike the Salmon River Trail roughly four miles to a viewpoint, then return the way you came. The trail isn’t particularly strenuous, but there are steeper sections. There are several established campsites near the river, including some that are just a short hike from the trailhead.
We didn’t cover the full length of the 14-mile Salmon River Trail during our backpacking trip.
When should you go? The trail is generally free of snow from April to November. Consider hitting the trail on a weekday, when it’s likely to be less busy.
Where should you turn for more information? Information from the Mt. Hood National Forest and OregonHikers.org will point trail users in the right direction.
Why should I pick this trail? We selected it because of its proximity to Portland and the established and easily accessible campsites. It’s merely one option among many for Oregon backpackers.
How can I be a good steward of this place and other visitors? Pack out what you pack in, make fires only in established fire rings and in accordance with fire restrictions, and wear a face covering while passing other hikers.
— Jim Ryan; jryan@oregonian.com; 503-221-8005; @Jimryan015
Subscribe to The Oregonian’s YouTube page to catch every episode of Peak Northwest, and follow me on Instagram at @JimryanPNW to see more of my adventures. Follow video producer Brooke Herbert on Instagram @abrookeherbert.
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