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Peak performance: the glorious highs of Hong Kong's trail runs - Financial Times

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This article is part of a guide to Hong Kong from FT Globetrotter

Having moved to Hong Kong from Paris, I was completely new to trail running. Parisians are, by default, not very outdoorsy.

But Hong Kong’s beautiful landscapes are impossible to resist — even to the most ardent urbanite. I soon welcomed any opportunity to spend time in the mountains, and in my more than six years living here, the trails have become an ideal way to escape the city’s crowded streets, high-rise buildings and constant noise. 

Over the past few months, with the pandemic resulting in on-and-off gym closures, I have dedicated more time to running the trails around the island. I find the combination of running and hiking to be the perfect way to improve cardiovascular endurance and overall strength — all the while enjoying the spectacular scenery on my doorstep. 

With the help of my friend Maximilian Lai, a fitness coach and experienced trail runner, I have listed a few of our favourite routes, with suggestions for staying on track, energised — and how many "effort points" (see below) each is worth.

Easy (<10 EP)

Wong Nai Chung Gap → Repulse Bay

Globetrotter running map showing Repulse Bay, Hong Kong
  • Distance: 4.2km (Strava)

  • Elevation gain: 224m 

  • Effort points: 6.44

  • Starting point: Wong Nai Chung Gap, at the Sinopec petrol station

  • Time: 48 minutes

  • FYI: at the starting point you can pick up water and snacks at the petrol station. The run ends at Repulse Bay, where you can reward yourself with lunch at Amalfitana, where the pizzas are excellent

This is one of Hong Kong’s most popular trails. It’s close to the city centre and relatively short, though the many stairs featured along the path make it a challenging workout. To start, take the short flight of steps next to the Sinopec petrol station at Wong Nai Chung Gap. Walk up Tai Tam Reservoir Road towards Parkview, and take the entrance on the right side of the road (Wilson Trail Section 1 — Parkview) that goes towards Tai Tam Country Park. From there, the trail is mostly uphill with a mix of stairs and rocky terrain. My advice here is to take your time and power-walk up to Violet Hill, the highest point on the trail, to take in Hong Kong’s skyline and the surrounding mountains. 

From Violet Hill, the run down to Tze Kong Bridge is quick and the view is breathtaking. You will be surrounded by the Tai Tam Country Park, with Repulse Bay to your right. Once you arrive at the bridge, you will have two options: cross it and run up The Twins, or turn right and descend into the woods that lead to the promenade on Repulse Bay and The Pulse shopping centre, where you’ll find places to eat and drink.

Aberdeen Country Park

Globetrotter running map showing Aberdeen Country Park, Hong Kong
  • Distance: 6.4km (Strava)

  • Elevation gain: 110m

  • Effort points: 7.5

  • Starting point: Nam Fung Road, east of South Island School

  • Time: 40mins-1 hour

  • FYI: there are no ATMs or convenience stores here, so be sure to bring cash, water and a snack with you. After your run, you can walk down to Aberdeen to catch a bus or taxi back to Central/Causeway Bay 

Aberdeen Country Park is considered the back garden of Hong Kong island. Known for its dense vegetation, it offers marvellous natural views; from elevated areas you’ll see Victoria Peak and Aberdeen Upper and Lower Reservoirs. The terrain around here can be a bit slippery and rocky but the trail is generally flat and mostly shaded, making it enjoyable even in the hot summer months. 

This route is not particularly challenging, so it makes a wonderful introduction to the world of trail running and Hong Kong’s forested areas. It’s also easy to access and very quiet — lovely if you’re looking for some splendid isolation.

To start, take the short set of steps on Nam Fung Road (just before the roundabout) and follow the sign to Lady Clementi’s Ride. You will begin your trail run in the only feng shui forest in Hong Kong, Nam Fung Road Woodland, along the route to Lady Clementi’s Ride — named after the wife of Sir Cecil Clementi, who was governor of Hong Kong from 1925 to 1930.

After running nearly 900m in the forest, you will reach a fork in the path: take the right and follow the trail uphill to a catchwater. There are no signposts, so be sure to periodically check your map. 

Once you’re out of the forest and beside the catchwater, run along the flat road. You’ll reach two forks. At the first, continue straight, and the second, pick the elevated route and follow the signs to Wan Chai Gap, which will mark the start of your loop around the Aberdeen Upper Reservoir. It’s straightforward from here — and you’ll barely notice the gradual elevation gain. Once you arrive at the top, follow the sign that says Peel Rise, which will lead you down to Aberdeen. This part of the path features 13 exercise stops, from a balance beam to pull-up bars, if you’d like to test your overall fitness.

Intermediate (11 to 20 EP) 

Mount Parker

Globetrotter running map showing Mount Parker, Hong Kong
  • Distance: 10.14km (Strava)

  • Elevation gain: 306m

  • Effort points: 13

  • Starting point: Shau Kei Wan MTR station

  • Time: 2hr+

  • FYI: there are no water-refill stations along the course so be sure to bring enough with you

This course offers a mix of terrain with both trail and paved road. The course begins with a gentle climb along Chai Wan Road, from where, just over 2km into the run, you’ll take a sharp right turn to enter the trail. Be sure to have access to a map as it can be easy to miss. Once you’re on the trail, the run eases as the terrain is flat and has a firm dirt surface.

There are a few viewpoints along the route that overlook Victoria Harbour and Tai Tam Country Park. (There is not much signage to direct you, but keep following the trail and you won’t miss the lookout spots.) The trail exits at Mount Parker Road — follow it down to Quarry Bay. Mount Parker Road is a great route for hill training, so if you’re ultra-ambitious or keen to train on an incline, add a run back up and down again.

Lion Rock

Globetrotter running map showing Lion’s Rock, Hong Kong
  • Distance: 8.2km (Strava)

  • Elevation gain: 532m

  • Effort points: 13

  • Starting point: Hung Mui Kuk Barbecue Area

  • Time: 2hr+

  • FYI: there is a water fountain and vending machines at the starting point, as well as a car park nearby. There is another water-refill station halfway into the run at Hung Yik Kiosk, which usually opens after 11am

Lion Rock, a granite peak that overlooks Kowloon and the New Territories, is one of the most famous mountains in Hong Kong for its shape (it resembles a crouching lion) and its breathtaking views of the city. This route starts from the Hung Mui Kuk Barbecue Area, a less busy entrance to Lion Rock, to avoid the Instagramming crowds. However, the peak is touristy and will be busy once you arrive at the top. 

Nearly all of this course’s elevation is in the first 2.5km, so the uphill challenge begins almost immediately. It does become easier as the run progresses — and the views are worth it nevertheless. Once you arrive at the top, you will be rewarded with a different perspective of Hong Kong, overlooking Kowloon (the districts you can see are Choi Hung, Kwun Tong and Wong Tai Sin). But do not rush to the peak, and watch your footing: the loose gravel and dirt terrain can be slippery. 

Advanced (20+ EP)

The Eight Immortals

Globetrotter running map showing 8 Immortals, Hong Kong
  • Distance: 14.31km (Strava)

  • Elevation gain: 879m

  • Effort points: 23

  • Starting point: Tai Mei Tuk Public Car Park

  • Time: 3hr+

  • FYI: the Tai Mei Tuk car park is sizeable, so there is a good chance you will get a space if you arrive before 9am. Make sure you have enough water before you start — the next refill station will be in 10km, at Bride’s Pool Waterfall 

In the north-east of the New Territories, Pat Sing Leng (or “Ridge of the Eight Immortals”) is made up of eight mountains each named after a different Immortal in Chinese mythology. (The eight immortals, or ba xian, represent heroes who seek justice and to vanquish evil.) It might come as a surprise, but running along the Eight Immortals is not the most challenging part of this route. The hardest part is getting to the start of the first mountain.

Once you are parked and have your water and gear ready, you can start to head up the Eight Immortals. In less than 1km, you will reach the beginning of the trail, where you will come across Spring Breeze Pavilion. This was built to commemorate two teachers who lost their lives in a 1996 wildfire to save their students. 

The climb becomes more intense once you pass the pavilion. The road is steep and uneven all the way to the trail, and you must run more than 500m uphill before starting the run on the first Immortal. Push through — soon you’ll be cruising across the trail and enjoying views of the sea. 

Tai Mo Shan 

Globetrotter running map showing Needle Grassy Tai Mo Shan, Hong Kong
  • Distance: 16.6km (Strava)

  • Elevation gain: 1,242m

  • Effort points: 29

  • Starting point: Pineapple Pass

  • Time: 4hr+

  • FYI: this route is not recommended for beginners. It is long, with more than 1,200m of elevation, and a water-refill station 1km into the run and another at the finish

This route is one of Hong Kong’s quintessential trail runs — and one to conquer before you can truly call yourself a trail runner here. Starting from Pineapple Pass, you will be able to fill your hydration pack around 1km into the run. Be aware that the next water refill station is not until the finish line.

The view on this route is stunning, as you will be running across three separate peaks, starting with Needle Hill, followed by Grassy Hill and finally, Hong Kong’s tallest mountain, Tai Mo Shan. Take your time with each climb and enjoy the striking scenery — it’s worth coming at sunrise or sunset to catch it at its best. (Do bring a jacket and head torch if you are attempting an evening run.) Depending on which section of the trail you are on, you can see all of Hong Kong from the top — and mainland China on a clear day.

For all levels

Victoria Peak

Globetrotter running map showing three routes around Victoria Peak loop, Hong Kong
  • Distance: 3.5km (the loop)

  • Elevation gain: 0m

  • Starting point: Harlech Road or Lugard Road, the main roads comprising the Peak Circle

  • Time: less than 30 minutes

  • FYI: transport is available by bus, a cab or the Peak Tram

No discussion of trail running in Hong Kong is complete without mentioning Victoria Peak. It’s one of the island’s most visited spots, but it also offers runners plenty of options — and glorious views. 

Route A: For a short and flat run (3.5km), take the route around Victoria Peak Park. Time your run for sunrise or sunset and you will not leave disappointed.

Route B: For those who love hill training, start at the Sai Ying Pun MTR station and run all the way up to Victoria Peak. Tackling the more than 300m of elevation is an excellent way to improve your cardiovascular strength and endurance. 

Route C: A longer run (around 6km) starts from Lugard Road and follows a route around the Victoria Peak Garden. Once you finish the loop, follow Pok Fu Lam Reservoir Road all the way down to Pok Fu Lam Road.

Maps by Liz Faunce

Do you have a favourite trail run in Hong Kong? Tell us in the comments

For more pieces like this, visit ft.com/globetrotter, follow us on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter or read our insider guide to Hong Kong

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